'Sarma' offers an American interpretation of Turkish meze culture

Ask an American what Turkish food is, and their answer will probably be kebab or baklava. Although kebab and baklava are popular (and delicious) examples of Turkish cuisine, it is criminal to define Turkish food by one region, which is southern Turkey in this case. After all, Turkey is an amalgam of different cultures, histories and traditions and, needless to say, this heterogeneity is reflected in its food.One of the most beloved culinary traditions of Turkey is meze — that is, Turkish tapas. Meze is shared among large groups of friends, and it is usually coupled with raki, an anise-flavored liquor. If kebab is from southern Turkey, meze is definitely Mediterranean.

There has been a trend in Boston that has lasted forever and a day, and that trend consists of interpreting meze culture for the likes of the American palate.It all started in 2001 when Ana Sortun opened Oleana in Cambridge. Oleana has remained one of Boston’s favorites over its 15-year history, and the restaurant is still featured in Boston Magazine’s “50 Best Restaurants” list. Recently, Committee opened in Seaport district. The restaurant's goal is to bring meze culture to a bar setting. Yet the hottest meze spot right now is Sarma, chef Ana Sortun’s latest effort.

It is very difficult to get reservations at Sarma. This is partially due to the size of the restaurant. Sarma is a tiny, cozy place that certainly does not fit the long table culture of traditional meze restaurants. There is also a very high demand for reservations. It is impossible to find a table on weekends, unless the reservation is made two to three weeks in advance. If getting a reservation is this frustrating, is Sarma really worth it? The answer is yes.

Sarma is located in Somerville. It is a 10-minute drive from Tufts, but there is not really a public transportation option. When you enter Sarma, one instantly notices the ceramic plates hanging on blue walls. The wall decoration is Mediterranean, yet the overall look of the restaurant is more eclectic. For example, there are bar stools in the center. In many ways, the ambiance of the restaurant summarizes the overall experience.

Meze is Turkish/Mediterranean, yet Sarma’s version of meze is not Mediterranean. It is more of an American interpretation of Mediterranean. This is apparent in the menu, which consists of lamb köfte sliders and kunefe grilled cheese. Yet this whole "east meets west" sort of combination works very well and creates a unique gastronomic experience. Even in Istanbul, where restaurants like Karakoy, Lokantasi or Maya attempt to westernize the meze, the end result is never this good. In fact, the lamb köfte sliders can compete with the best burgers in Boston, while the kunefe grilled cheese, if endorsed appropriately, might be the next big drunk food. Sarma does not solely offer Turkish meze. For example, the delightfully spicy Casablanca couscous is North African. Haloumi baked grits is more Middle Eastern. Both of the dishes intensify the fusion of wide-ranging cultures observed in the restaurant.

Perhaps, the best part of Sarma for those not familiar with Mediterranean food is loukamades. Loukamades (lokma in Turkish) are little doughnuts that are usually glazed with sherbet. Sarma’s version is a bit different; instead of sherbet, ricotta is used. Additionally, one can order toppings that will come alongside the loukamades; experimenting with different toppings is highly recommended.

For an average college student, Sarma is expensive ($30 per person, minimum). Yet for those who like to explore and experiment with different cuisines, Sarma is the perfect place. Wilder and more casual than its sibling Oleana, the restaurant deserves the attention of food aficionados that are willing to find out about the wonders of meze.