West Bridge whips up artful tapas with modern twist

Five minutes north of Kendall Square lies a bevy of outstanding restaurants. One of the most notable of these is West Bridge, a three year-old establishment. Like many forward-thinking restaurants, it’s hard to classify West Bridge's specialty as one specific type of cuisine. If one absolutely had to place a label on Chef Matthew Gaudet’s open and warm eatery, however, it’d be something like "French/New England tapas joint." Indeed, the menu is extremely flexible, allowing guests to make their way through multiple offerings on their journey to a full stomach.

Most meals at West Bridge start with toasts -- no, not the beverage kind. For three dollars, two long slices of rich sourdough are covered in one of two lavish spreads: one made of beets topped with salmon roe, the other of duck liver. From there, one can choose any combination of West Bridge's dishes, which come in sizes labeled "small", "side" and "share." For larger groups, the menu boasts a “table” section, where guests can choose from much bigger options like an entire roasted chicken for their party. The only differences between the categories are that sides are primarily vegetable dishes and shares are entrée-sized and slightly more expensive. Between two decent eaters, a small, a side and a share will get the table to the finish line. With a larger party, diners will need to try quite a few great dishes to satiate their appetites. As part of West Bridge's "Seasonal Tasting," diners can choose up to four dishes (amongst shares, sides and smalls) for the price of $52/person. A "For the Family" option is also available, which provides two sides, one "share" and one "table" dish for $42/person.

Within this wide range of options are a couple standouts. One of these is West Bridge’s best-known menu item: the Egg in a Jar. Underneath a poached duck egg sits Hen of the Woods mushrooms, potato puree and crispy chicken skin to add a little crunch to the "jar." The waiters advise guests to devour this dish by mixing everything together, which is indeed the best way to get a bit of each rich flavor in every bite.

The vegetable dishes are just as ambitious. Cauliflower is sliced into thick slabs and paired with too many interesting accoutrements (apricot, sambal, verjus) to classify the dish as one particular cuisine, though not so many that the many fantastic flavors detract from each other. Other solid choices include kale with gooseberries and duck confit, and sunchoke with parsnip, ginger, walnut and black truffle. It’s good that the vegetable sides are so hearty, because the “share” section is all about meat and seafood. Calamari and pork, duck and short ribs are among the big dishes. One of the tastier choices is a blood-orange trout with red peas. With the dish's excellent preparation, devouring a whole fish has never been easier.

When all is said and done, the meal is sumptuous. The average cost of dinner at West Bridge, however, varies highly with one’s appetite. It’s very easy for guests who aren’t voracious eaters to try a number of great dishes and walk out content, but those who want to feel as stuffed as they do after making full use of their unlimited meal plan might have a harder time on a budget. Drinks are also pricey at West Bridge, as the bar alone is an extremely popular upscale destination. Cocktails are priced at $11/each, and wine varies, with the cheapest half bottle of red priced at $23. West Bridge makes an outstanding choice for foodies who want to reward their palate after a week of Chipotle and dining hall cheeseburgers, but it is a poor choice for those who crave massive meals and enjoy a few drinks during dinner, unless they're ready to splurge.

West Bridge is located at 1 Kendall Square, Cambridge, Mass. 02139. It can be reached at (617) 945-0221 and online. It is open Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. - midnight, Saturday - Sunday 3:00 p.m. - midnight, with cocktails served on Friday and Saturday until 1 a.m. Reservations can be made online or by phone. For  parties requesting a private dining room, patrons can contact Alexis Gelburd-Kimler at (617) 945-0221 .