Highland Kitchen serves American comfort food with a twist

Tucked away in the heart of Somerville, the entrance to Highland Kitchen is nondescript, denoted only by a sign that looks far older than the restaurant it marks. The doors to Highland Kitchen opened less than 10 years ago, but the joint’s American comfort food has become a staple and, indeed, a highlight in the Somerville restaurant menagerie. Chef Mark Romano’s menu is eccentric but easy to navigate, as the majority of items are easily recognizable plates like a pan-roasted half chicken or a pulled pork sandwich. Recognizable shouldn’t be mistaken for commonplace, though; Highland Kitchen reinvents favorite meals in bold fashion. Jambalaya here includes the traditional shrimp, Andouille sausage and Tasso ham, but also adds duck confit to the mix. The vegetable pot pie isn’t just for plain ol' turnips, parsnips and carrots – it’s also for golden beets and butternut squash. Oh yeah, and it’s served in free form. None of that "traditional pie presentation" to be found here.

At Highland Kitchen, a healthy number of dishes are changed out nightly. For all its creativity and fluidity, though, a handful of success stories have held a place on the menu for most of the restaurant’s existence. Buffalo fried Brussels sprouts are every bit as rich as they sound, especially when either drizzled or dunked in blue cheese dressing (I’m going to make a strong push for the dunked option). Even more outstanding is the restaurant’s best-known dish: spicy coconut curried goat stew. If the notion of a hearty stew at all appeals to you, you’re in luck, because it only gets better from there. The dish is a healthy balance of the coconut curry sauce, jasmine rice, fried plantains and surprisingly tender goat meat. Like any good stew, hearty is an easily applied adjective, and the kick in the sauce is fun but not overwhelming. For those with stomachs big enough to make it through an appetizer and an entrée, the dessert menu is highlighted by a warm banana bread pudding. And for those rare 21+ Daily readers, the drinks menu is excellent, with particular depth in both the cocktail and beer lists. This turns out to be a necessary feature, as many guests finds themselves holed up at the bar while waiting for a table.

Though Highland Kitchen used to take reservations, in recent years they’ve eschewed that practice in favor of a first-come first-served approach, and it appears to have been successful. Only 15 minutes after opening on a Saturday (at the relatively early hour of 5 p.m.), the restaurant was nearly full. This is where an older restaurant with a more experienced management team like Highland Kitchen has the edge over newer eateries; though fast table turnovers are sorely needed, service never feels rushed. Dining feels casual due both to pleasant service and the restaurant's warm interior.The atmosphere makes for an excellent third date spot – neither too loud to cut off conversation, nor too intimate that the awkward silences are painful.The evening is also very manageable on the wallet, with entrees under $20 a plate and sandwiches around $10. Portions are generous, so those with smaller stomachs might pass on appetizers -- which are on the pricier side anyway -- and focus on their main course. When all is said and done, Tufts diners can wander out of the restaurant and onto the 88 bus, which will deposit them at Davis or Teele Square, or they can walk three minutes north and catch the 80 and ride all the way to the Memorial Steps or Boston Ave.For those unwilling to take the bus, you can tell your Lyft or Uber driver to deposit you at 150 Highland Ave. in Somerville, and make sure they know not to wait up -- you’ve got a date with a stew.

Highland Kitchen is located at 150 Highland Ave., Somerville, Mass. 02143. Dinner is served every night from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. The bar is open every night from opening until 1 a.m. Brunch is served on Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. For more information about the restaurant, diners can call (617) 625-1131 or visit the website.