There is a small restaurant tucked away among the various eateries of University Hall, a mini-mall now also home to Lesley University. Squeezed between the other Korean and Japanese restaurants, it would be easy to miss — it would be easy to miss, that is, if it not for the line of people wrapped around the corner of the food court waiting to be seated. This is Sapporo Ramen, the jewel of Lesley University’s ground floor.
Sapporo has a reputation for its exceptionally good house ramen, and perhaps this has made the proprietors a bit lackadaisical; around 3 p.m. the restaurant ceases operations so that the staff can have a lunch break for nearly an hour and a half before reopening to a new line of eager patrons. You could easily find yourself waiting in a substantial line for nearly 30 minutes, wishing that somebody would turn back the little hands on the adjustable “We’ll be back in _____” sign with its faded blue clock graphic.
But if you weather the line, you’ll be ferried into the restaurant by an employee who will ask you your order (there are menus if you’re unsure). The restaurant is small, and the staff are trying to fill as much space as possible, so you run the risk of being seated at a table with strangers — and it’s not unheard of for one solo diner to be placed with another to consolidate space. The forced intimacy, simultaneously brusque and endearing, is one caveat of the restaurant that is perhaps oddly indicative of the entire dining experience — casual and cozy.
Sapporo Ramen is a grungy venue, but it carries itself well. From the pea green walls to the packets of chopsticks stuffed in wooden centerpieces on the tables, the restaurant has small, classy touches that keep it from diving over the edge into a full-blown dive. There are pros and cons to the size — into which about 20 diners at a time can fit. On one hand, once you’re seated you can sit back in relative peace, watching the chefs prepare your food in the exposed kitchen, savoring the smell of fresh ramen. On the other hand, if you’re one of the sorry suckers waiting in line, the low seating capacity means that you may have a bit of a wait ahead of you. Overall, the atmosphere is pleasant and the service is efficient and accommodating.
If you’re a first-timer, you should really order the house ramen. Sapporo boasts a soup base full of natural collagen and fresh vegetables, a broth that’s been boiled over high heat for more than ten hours. And there must be some merit to this, because the house ramen is delicious. It comes with tender pieces of pork that have been sprinkled with mung bean sprouts, corn and half a hard-boiled egg. A single small strip of seaweed garnishes one edge of the bowl. The broth is a thick creamy yellow. It’s mildly spicy, savory and incredibly filling — every bite is a tiny explosion of flavor. While the house ramen is the cornerstone of the menu, the restaurant still has a variety of other items (including the highly renowned spicy miso).
Sapporo Ramen deserves its reputation as a diamond in the rough. This restaurant is indeed a hidden gem — albeit a well-worn one that’s been around the block. The dining experience may not be for everybody, but for those who enjoy more adventurous locales, Sapporo Ramen carries a certain informal charm that can’t be found at more stodgy haunts. With such high quality food at such low prices, it’s almost difficult to justify eating anywhere else nearby. Be aware, though, of the possible drawbacks: the food may be good, but the line is long.
