Not too long ago, there was a series of advertisements sponsored by the American Dairy Association that peppered primetime television. These messages always concluded with the baritone narrator intoning, "Ah, the power of cheese." Formaggio's Kitchen offers its patrons access to some of the world's most amazing cheeses. Those of you who are lactose intolerant, just stop reading now.
A brief jaunt from Harvard Square, Formaggio's Kitchen is a specialty store with a brilliant array of hard?to?find ingredients. The store has literally anything you could want. European honey - flecked with truffles? Check. Salted butter caramels? Check. While the shop also functions as a grocery store - selling produce so fresh that it would make Whole Foods blush - it is the artisanal oils, vinegars and, of course, cheeses that separate Formaggio's from the rest.
Upon walking in the front door of the ivy?laced store, one can't help but feel excited. Plump sausages and full legs of Jamon Iberico adorn the walls, hanging like charcuterie?inspired ornaments. Hunks of house?made guanciale (uncured Italian bacon made from a pig's jowl or cheek) beckon with their glistening layer of fat. Formaggio's not only buys some of the best meat from Spain and Italy, but also makes some amazing options of its own.
The homemade pates, for instance, are enlightening. A pate is a rich, savory paste made from finely mashed ingredients, typically seasoned meat or fish. They can range in texture from a dense mousse to a structured blend. The pate de Campagne is a great introduction, as it features an amazing blend of flavorful pork trimmings and minced liver. Bacon, port and cream provide a rich mouthful, while whole peppercorns supply a biting finish.
As amazing as the meat was, it is the cheese that steals the show. Cheeses of all different textures and tastes are available for purchase at the store. For every hardened cheddar from England, there is a gooey camembert from Normandy. For fans of the stinky, take heart: You haven't been forgotten. Plenty of natural?rind cheeses offer some funk. During my visit, I sampled a cheese with a wash?rind and brought home a wash?rind cheese that now has my entire refrigerator smelling like armpit. If that sounds a little too adventurous, there are also plenty of mild, more approachable cheeses. There's really something for everyone.
With more than 200 cheeses to choose from, you can't help but feel overwhelmed. Don't worry, the friendly staff is there to help guide and educate. Each staff member is knowledgeable and passionate about the products on display. If you have any sort of question, go ahead and ask. Whether you're curious about the AOC laws that regulate cheese production in France or want to learn about the differences between burrata and buffalo mozzarella, the staff will be there to help.
The key to Formaggio's success comes from its cheese cave. Rather than store its cheeses in suboptimal conditions, Formaggio's hollowed out two rooms that offer the cheese a damp and musty habitat ideal for storage and aging. Constructed in 1996, the shop's two caves maintain a temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity level of 85 percent. Such a high moisture level in the air facilitates bacteria and mold growth, which is integral to the aging of young cheeses. Furthermore, the environment keeps older cheeses from drying out. The exposed stone helps keep the rooms cold, while a fountain and deep puddles maintain the high level of humidity.
Before visiting Formaggio's, I highly recommend calling in advance for a tour of the cave. This personalized glimpse at the underappreciated and misunderstood art of cheese is unlike anything else in the Boston area.
