As anyone can tell you, Boston does not understand a number of West−Coast staples. More than anything, though, Mexican food remains an unfathomable mystery to many New England eateries.
Despite their elaborate toppings and web designs, Boloco and Qdoba will never serve anything like that $4, two−pound burrito for which you had to cross a freeway back in California. (The East Coast also doesn't really understand what a "freeway" is).
But then there's Anna's Taqueria, where at least a little bit of hope resides. Though Davis Square's Anna's is but one of the chain's six locations, it is the culinary mothership for many college students in the Cambridge/Somerville area.
Anna's doesn't have a large menu, but what they do, they tend to do well. The restaurant prides itself on its freshly prepared ingredients, and the proof is in the pudding. Patrons ordering burritos will immediately notice the large, tidy assortment of ingredients that dominate the space behind the counter. Only a minimal amount of each ingredient is put out at a time, ensuring maximum freshness and quality. As soon as anything is used up, it is cooked anew and replaced. Better still, everything is sliced immediately before being incorporated into a dish. You can't get much fresher than that.
Anna's is best known for their meat−based burritos ($4.85 regular, $5.35 super) and tacos ($2.85 regular, $1.95 al pastor), but even their veggie burrito was quite good. Lightly seasoned broccoli, carrots, onions, peppers and zucchini are paired with the patron's choice of rice, beans, cheese, salsa and hot sauce before everything is rolled up into burrito form.
Anna's works assembly line−style, and much to the benefit of the customer: Seeing everything laid out before you helps make choosing food faster and easier. Plus, it's fun to watch your meal being assembled. The finished product is hardly a glamorous one, but it's reasonably portioned and avoids the texture faux pas frequently committed by the rice−heavy wraps of other institutions.
Even the humble quesadilla makes a strong appearance at Anna's ($3.25, or $4.50 with meat). Rather than being a basic fusion of cheese and tortilla, Anna's adds black beans, lettuce, guacamole and pico de gallo to the mix, along with any desired meat. Furthermore, grilling the quesadilla gives it a tasty crunch that contrasts nicely with the ingredients inside.
The only real disappointment was Anna's homemade horchata ($1.75). A rice− and almond−based drink, good horchata is served cold, with its light, sweet flavor balancing refreshingly with the spice and salt of the food. Maybe it was because of our 8 p.m. meal, but this horchata hardly lived up to our expectations — it was watery and tasted almost exclusively nutty. The selection of imported drinks is more impressive. From sugar cane−based Mexican Coke ($1.85) to seven flavors of Jarritos ($1.75) to an assortment of Jumex juices ($1.75), Anna's has covered all of their beverage bases.
Anna's Taqueria has been a student hangout since its founding in 1995 and will likely continue to be one for generations to come. After all, it embodies the ideal college trifecta with its tastiness, convenience and low prices. Furthermore, its menu includes Mexican basics like cheese quesadillas alongside more adventurous foods like lengua (cow tongue) so that even the most timid patrons don't feel culture−shocked. They also kindly include a "glossary" section on their menu for any burrito virgins.
The restaurant may be lacking in ambience, but that's hardly the reason most customers go there. What the restaurant lacks in interior design it makes up for with sheer practicality. High ceilings and ample tables make Anna's a great spot for large groups or spontaneous encounters with friends. Anna's may never have the vicious hot sauces, fish tacos or wet burritos that are so popular in other parts of the country, but the food they do have is a respectable foray into Mexican cuisine.
