Offering an impressively arrayed, elegantly prepared menu on a regular basis is one thing, but doing it with constantly rotating dishes is another thing entirely. Bondir, the culinary progeny of head chef Jason Bond, not only makes good on this ambitious promise but does so almost effortlessly.
Bondir's menu changes daily — read that again if you need to. Where most purveyors of high−end cuisine tend to rely on the old standby of seasonal changes, Bond throws out the book entirely. Don't expect a standard appetizer−entree−dessert pattern either, as you won't find it here. Instead, you'll be greeted by a trim sheet of the day's selections, featuring both half and full portions.
The genius of it all lies in the menu's incredible diversity of flavors. With four half−portions per dining pair, it's possible to sample a clear majority of the menu. Then, when you return — and you will — a brand new slate will take its place.
But enough about concept and innovation, since the quality and execution of Bond's dishes quite possibly trumps them. The first taste was a trio of breads, featuring a simple nine−grain, another made with corn flour and duck cracklings and one known simply as "The Sea."
Though this mysteriously named offering is essentially a black slice of bread, it was full of surprises. Its unusual coloring comes from squid ink, while its flavor comes from a combination of seaweed and dehydrated shrimp. The result was surprisingly subtle — even delicate — in light of its component ingredients.
Unexpected combinations made another appearance in the first course, a butternut squash soup served with roasted pumpkin seeds, spiced marshmallow, caramelized shallots and bee pollen. By virtue of each element's suspension in the base, every spoon delivered a slightly different set of flavors, each clearly delineated and distinctive. This allowed the sweetness of the marshmallow and toasty crunch of the pumpkin seeds to be accentuated, rather than become lost.
That ability to marry individual tastes without blending them into one another would continue throughout the meal, including the next two courses of olive oil−poached bluefish and braised chicken served with house−made fusilli pasta. With both, the accompanying paired vegetables felt more like a well−thought−out component of the dish's overall thrust than a simple add−on.
For the bluefish, a bed of shaved vegetables, green beans and mushrooms provided a nice counterpoint to the richly seasoned, delicate flesh of the fish. And for its counterpart, a medley of crisped red kale, Scamorza cheese and sweetened chunks of pumpkin balanced the savory chicken and starchier pasta with multiple, but always complementary, textures.
Main dishes, however, would go on to surpass everything that had been tasted before. A set of Scituate scallops accompanied by leeks, potatoes, okra, roasted eggplant, hazelnuts and smoked sea salt froth matched a seared, firm outside with a succulent interior. The mutton shoulder that followed presented the boldest flavor of the night, perfectly handled. Served with an arc of crème fraiche, a red wine reduction, wheatberries and cubed Asian pear, the heavier quality of the mutton didn't dominate the dish, but packed a delicious autumnal punch.
Delicate preparation and carefully linked flavors characterize Bondir's approach perfectly. Bond has managed to create tastes and textures on a small, precise scale that are as unique as they are effective.
And if you worry that the identity of each delectable morsel you're enjoying might slip your mind, fear not — a revolving staff will warmly and unpretentiously describe the contents of each dish as it's presented.
Dining at Bondir, it's difficult to avoid the feeling that you've somehow stumbled into a wonderful home in the French countryside. The simultaneously relaxed and refined atmosphere, coupled with superbly prepared cuisine, is beautifully disorienting, and, fortunately for diners, the host happens to be one exceptional chef.
