Should you find yourself with a bit of extra cash on hand to devote to some culinary spelunking — or in the company of a date whom you'd very much like to impress — there is no shortage of high-end dining options in Cambridge and Boston proper. Choices range from the Southern quirks of Hungry Mother, to the classic appeal of Ten Tables, to the rustic, gourmet quality of Gaslight Brasserie du Coin.
That list, of course, goes from sushi to tapas and back again, with each new find falling rather neatly into a category. But what sets Jason Santos' Blue Inc. apart is its ability to skirt conventions that often seem unavoidable and to do so with a sense of effortless, playful invention.
The experience began with their first offering for the table: a basket of pretzel-bread rolls paired with grain-mustard butter. As an unabashedly creative opening bite, it worked flawlessly, and the salty, hearty bread paired well with the understated hint of mustard.
Though menus were still closed at this point, there was already no doubt that the meal would be anything but typical.
As the meal began, Blue Inc.'s creativity really began to shine. First courses include a potato gnocchi and lamb sausage combination nestled within delicate sheets of parmesan ($9) and a lobster and truffle soup featuring porcini mushrooms and bee pollen ($13). Each was executed marvelously and elegantly presented.
With well-sized chunks of lobster in a rich, decadent base, the soup somehow managed to preserve its varied individual flavors, avoiding the pitfall of stewed-together flavor anonymity. Meanwhile, the gnocchi offered the perfect contrast — rugged, spicy lamb opposite the gnocchi's creamy delicacy.
The innovative success continued well into the entrees. On deck were the hoisin-glazed duck confit ($25) and the braised veal cheeks ($25), each featuring superbly prepared meats. Their tenderness rendered our knives altogether unnecessary.
And though the duck did suffer slightly from a separation of flavors — the hoisin sauce layered the duck's surface instead of penetrating the meat itself — its accompaniment was a standout. Mango with coconut sticky rice, traditionally a dessert item, worked brilliantly here. Its sweet and tart flavors balanced well against the more savory poultry.
The veal hit every note with precision. Atop a velvety potato puree, the tender meat matched with green peppercorns and tiny cubes of watermelon that punctuated each bite with unexpected sweetness. It's a bold combination that easily could have gone awry, but instead tied the dish together and prevented it from becoming heavy.
Portioning is just as refined, so you needn't fear the "large plate, tiny portion" syndrome that often plagues restaurants aiming for ascetic modernity.
While the decor might convince you otherwise at first, replete as it is with blues, silvers and ultra-chic mirrored surfaces, what sets Blue apart is its genial, good-natured service and its earnestly creative menu.
The cocktail selection is a perfect example. Over the course of the night, we sampled three drinks, all of which were artfully crafted with the same verve and inventiveness that characterized the menu.
For instance, the POOF! A Transparent Manhattan ($11) comes swirling with liquid nitrogen, resembling witches' brew more than a consumable beverage. But a few sips in, it's clear that the cocktail is not only drinkable, but a real treat.
Moments like that tend to define the experience at Blue Inc. Yes, there are flourishes of surface showiness, but they are underpinned by the genuine pleasure the venue takes in being irreverent and defying expectations.
It's the rare restaurant that doesn't take itself too seriously and never lets its playfulness keep its food and drinks from seriously impressing.
