I don’t know if this has come across to you all, but I think a lot about food. It occupies a lot of my mental space. Inevitably, these culinary contemplations give rise to complex delusions about elaborate meals. I literally wrote about alligator fries in my last column.
Still, at its core, food can be very simple. And, as a devoted eater, it’s my duty to respect all foods, even in their most basic forms. Thus, I decided to focus on a dish that’s so simple, it often gets overlooked — the grilled cheese. Bread and cheese, cheese and bread. It’s a basic concept, yet incredibly delicious when done right. So, I thought I’d give my take on some of the area’s greatest grilled cheeses.
The first grilled cheese I tried was at Foundry on Elm in Davis Square. Without any exaggeration, I can confidently say it was the best grilled cheese I’ve ever had. The first bite comes with a crunchy greeting from the crisp sourdough bread, griddled to perfection. The smoked gouda and cheddar combine to form a warm, balanced taste. The tomato soup is everything you could ask for. Hearty, but still with a bit of a tang, it is the perfect accompaniment to the sandwich. But the pièce de résistance was the honey drizzle. Yes, they put honey on a grilled cheese sandwich. And it was sublime.
My next stop was at the local high-rated grilled cheese-centric establishment, Roxy’s Grilled Cheese & Burgers in Cambridge. A funky joint with an attached arcade, I also appreciated the reasonable prices (being a food reviewer is not a lucrative position). I ordered two grilled cheeses — the Classic Three Cheese and the Steak N Cheese. Disappointingly, the classic three cheese was nothing to write home about. The cheddar, muenster and Monterey Jack blended together, becoming indistinguishable. The locally baked bread was perfectly grilled and crunchy, but it failed to make up for the cheese’s lack of flavor. It was nothing that could not have been made at home.
The Steak N Cheese was a solid attempt at converting a cheesesteak into a grilled cheese. The steak was tender and juicy, with the caramelized onions also bringing a kick. The choice of peppers was wrong, however, as I think sweet or banana peppers would’ve made the dish more well-rounded than flat, green bell peppers. Still, it was a tasty rendition of a Philadelphia classic in New England. Overall, Roxy’s earns points for its style, and I’ll definitely return to try its other menu items, including the burger selections.
No column on grilled cheese could be complete without a special mention for the grilled cheese from Dewick-MacPhie Dining Center. There’s a reason I haven’t reviewed Dewick — the review would resemble a smackdown. But, I’ll give credit where credit is due. Seeing grilled cheese at Dewick for lunch is like what it must’ve felt like discovering gold in California in 1848. Warm, crispy and reliable — it hits every time.
As always, my gut reactions:
Foundry on Elm – It will change your life.
Roxy’s – It gets the job done. Maybe the burgers will be better.
Dewick – We come to this place for magic … to laugh, to cry, to care.
So, let this column serve as a reminder not to judge a book, or a sandwich, by its cover. Even the simplest creation, cheese squeezed between two slices of bread, can yield a world of delicious delicacies. The next time you see grilled cheese on a menu, don’t pass it over for being too juvenile. Order it, drizzle it with the honey that you’ve brought with you to dinner and munch away.
