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The Tufts Daily
Where you read it first | Monday, October 7, 2024

Munching with Max: Buttermilk & Bourbon

Max’s column returns with a review of a Southern food restaurant.

column graphic for Max Druckman's "Munching with Max" column
Graphic by Rachel Wong

It’s said that absence makes the heart grow fonder. Though I cannot confirm nor deny that, I know that good food makes the heart grow fonder. So, whether you missed me and my lovely insights or just missed the food talk, you’re in luck. After a summer sabbatical, I am taking my talents back to the Daily for another year of munching to the max.

For my first column of the year, I’ll be focusing on Buttermilk & Bourbon, a Southern restaurant in Boston. The restaurant’s dishes come in small plates, meaning the menu offered a wide arsenal in one spot for my review. Remember: work smarter, not harder, kids.

Since I ate with two other people, we ordered five dishes. First was the Nashville Hot Alligator Fries. Yes, alligator. We walk on the wild side at Munching with Max. Having previously tried alligator, I wasn’t shocked by the well-fried, chewy and tasty alligator bites. The fries were well done and crispy, with the perfect amount of salt. The crinkle-cut pickles added a tangy element and were complemented nicely by the pimento queso. The dish’s star was the comeback sauce, a chipotle mayo-esque concoction. Overall, an exotic and appetizing starter.

Next, the BBQ Brisket Nachos, three words with lofty expectations. The brisket was juicy and the barbecue flavor wasn’t overwhelming — a plus for me, as I’m not barbecue sauce’s biggest fan. The nachos were complemented by stellar pickled onions, which produced a tart flavor. The cayenne crema rounded out the dish as the perfect cheese substitute. While it’s nacho business (I couldn’t resist), it was a great nacho.

After the nachos came the meal’s star — biscuits! What’s a Southern meal without biscuits!? These buns stole the show. The honey glaze sweetly topped the soft, melt-in-your-mouth biscuits. The biscuits, which were jumbo-sized, came with smoked cinnamon butter and pimento cheese spreads, the latter of which was excellent. Mixing the pimento cheese with the biscuits transported me to a café in Savannah, Ga. It was that good.

Later came the House Buttermilk Fried Chicken Wings. As my friend isn’t a fan of spice, we requested the Nashville Hot Sauce on the side. The wings were a letdown. They were well-cooked and had a crunch, but lacked flavor. Also, disappointingly, they were of the coal-fired variety instead of the battered and breaded Southern fried chicken variety. They were good, but not that good.

Lastly, we finished with the Grilled Buffalo Baby Back Ribs. A cross between tandoori chicken and spare ribs, the ribs were succulent and fell right off the bone. They were spicy, though not too spicy, and came with a nice kick. The celery root slaw and charred onion jam that accompanied them were nothing to write home about. A unique concoction of flavors, the dish’s supporting cast could have been better.

Once again, my gut reactions:

Signature Warm Honey Glazed Biscuits: Spectacular. Give me 14 of them right now.

Nashville Hot Alligator Fries: Interesting and succulent.

BBQ Brisket Nachos: Nacho typical nachos.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken: Fine, but not fried chicken.

Grilled Buffalo Baby Back Ribs: Spicy and unique, solid.

After deep consideration, my verdict on Buttermilk & Bourbon is that it’s above average. In terms of Southern food in Boston, it’s as good as you’re going to get. It mostly had hits, with some misses, but I would definitely return.

While five dishes were probably too much for three people, you only live munch. So, live, laugh, munch, and make sure to keep calm and munch on. After all, you miss 100% of the munches you don’t take.