Touring Europe during your time abroad and craving an affordable meal away from tourist traps? Here are two sandwich shops that I still think about. Thank me later.
Milan: Cesarino
This sandwich shop does it so well, so casually. Here, I had one of the best sandwiches in my life, but for Cesarino, it’s nothing out of the ordinary.
Cesarino has a small storefront tucked in a quiet walking path close to the assorted shopping plazas near the Duomo di Milano, or Milan Cathedral. Its brick-lined walls display a random selection of gadgets and posters. The movements of the customers and two chefs who rotate as the cashier, the passing of napkin-wrapped half-foot sandwiches and the small cups of bright orange cocktails blended into the natural rhythm of the neighborhood. There were no big signs or advertisements around the block, but I also wouldn’t consider it a hole-in-the-wall type of place. Customers were scattered in the outdoor seating area and the bar stools inside. Everything about Cesarino gives off a sense of embeddedness.
Driven by hunger, we walked into Cesarino hoping for a quick meal before we hiked up to the Duomo rooftop. From their extensive menu, I got a cappuccino and a sandwich with prosciutto, pesto, basil, tomato and fresh mozzarella for less than 9 euros.
I would pay to take myself back in time so that I could experience that first bite of the sandwich once again. The crunch of the toasted baguette, the freshness of the tomato slices and basil leaves. The acidity of the tomato, balanced by the creamy, half-melted cheese, all topped off with raw, savory flavors of prosciutto. The explosion of umami going through the roof. I then took a sip of the coffee and questioned why I was able to get a cup of delicious coffee for 1.5 euros at a sandwich shop I stumbled across by accident, when something like that would cost 3 or 4 pounds in a London coffee shop that boasts its coffee quality.
Brussels: Tonton Garby
This is a sandwich shop whose owner is committed to spending 10 minutes with each customer. Maybe that’s why we waited for 50 minutes, but it was all worth it.
During your time abroad, you will most likely come across one of Eurostars’ many ticket sales, one of which may allow you to get tickets to Brussels for only 39 euros. If you decide to embark on a Belgian adventure, come to Tonton Garby for an adventure for your tastebuds.
Tonton Garby is a quiet presence close to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium. Despite its muted color walls, the shop still managed to attract a long line of customers that extended down the street — did I mention that he spends 10 minutes with each customer?
At the counter, I saw nothing but cheese. All kinds of cheese. Behind the counter stood one person: a chef, a server and a cashier all in one. He stopped us when we tried to order from the menu written on their wall.
“Forget about the menu,” he said. “Tell me what flavors you like.”
He proceeded to introduce us to over 10 types of cheese, which cheese went well with which and how he would combine them to create unique flavors.
“I used to sell cheese,” he added.
After 40 minutes (there were four people in our group), I ordered a baguette with some sort of cream cheese spread, spicy salami and grated cheddar, sprinkled with fresh grapes, cranberries and blueberries and topped with a splash of honey. As someone who’s typically not adventurous with my food, I paused before taking the first bite and proceeded to devour the entire sandwich within the next five minutes.
Oh. My. God. The sweetness of the honey, the freshness of the fruit, the spiciness of the salami and the savory cheese all blended into a perfect harmony. It’s nothing I’ve tasted before, and I believe I won’t encounter something like this ever again. My short stay in Brussels unfortunately didn’t allow for another 50-minute wait, but I’m glad I was able to spend 10 minutes of that trip talking to the former cheese vendor turned sandwich maker about cow’s milk, goat’s milk and his family in Marrakesh. It was a personal experience.
