Restaurant Review | Istanbul’lu offers quality food, fine dining experience

Teele Square’s Istanbul’lu is by now a familiar sight to many Tufts students, whether they realize it or not. Joey riders pass the Turkish restaurant on the drive returning from Davis Square, but as eyes glaze over and the shuttle bus moves by the cluster of eateries that line the small intersection, how many wonder what lies behind the sunny yellow storefront and unassuming black door? The familiarity of the image puts passersby at risk of overlooking this small, but colorful local gem.

Istanbul’lu is — in the best possible way — a classic hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Immediately upon crossing the threshold, a surprisingly intimate and bright interior greets patrons. Tiny tables and cramped, cushioned seats are perfect for small dining parties. On a Sunday evening, nearly every one is occupied. Obviously a favorite among Somerville residents, the place is friendly, with a unique flair. Above the cheerful chatter that fills Istanbul’lu, a radio plays loud pop tunes, a little at odds with the more serious aspects of the restaurant.

Despite its small size and eclectic decoration, Istanbul’lu provides a quality dining experience. The menu boasts traditional Turkish fare bound to impress even the pickiest customers. Both vegetarians and meat-eaters have a wide selection from which to choose, and filling staples like yogurt, eggplant and vegetables make it unlikely that anyone will leave hungry. Best of all, these moderately healthy ingredients are crisp and flavorful, never bland or boring.

The tapas selection should also not be overlooked. Divided on the menu between hot and cold plates, these small dishes are more substantial than your typical appetizer, and could suffice for a light meal. Among these, the Imam bayildi, baked baby eggplant stuffed with fresh peppers, onions and tomatoes, is a wonderful choice. Just the right touch of spice brightens the earthy flavor of the vegetables, combining familiarity and surprise to make for unexpected comfort food. The salads, too, are fresh and filling — two trademarks of the Istanbul’lu experience. No matter what you order for dinner, though, make sure not to miss the dessert. A freshly baked pastry, dripping with honey and dusted with crushed pistachios, is served warm.

One downfall of the otherwise impressive menu is the occasionally steep prices. For instance, dinner entrees range from $14.50 to $19.50, though most hover between $16 and $18. While these prices are short of exorbitant, they might stretch the wallet of typical college student looking for a quick or simple bite to eat.

For those who remain undiscouraged, however, it is best to visit Istanbul’lu with a friend and an adventurous spirit. Consider ordering one to two tapas and an entr?e or sharing several plates with friends, as many of the dishes go wonderfully together. The intimate atmosphere, too, makes Istanbul’lu perfect for a casual date. Conveniently, Istanbul’lu will also make orders to go, and delivers to Tufts students.

While it might be habit to stroll past Istanbul’lu without a second glance on your next walk through Teele Square, this restaurant is worth a try for anyone looking for a fulfilling and flavorful meal. While prices might be a bit high for the average student, this local favorite offers unassuming charisma and quality food, two things that have charmed the handful of Tufts students and Somerville residents who have already discovered this local treasure.

Istanbul’lu is located at 237 Holland Street and is open Tuesday through Wednesday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Sunday the restaurant is also open for brunch, opening at 11 a.m. They are closed Monday.