Doughnut culture is currently experiencing something of a golden age, what with bloggers and Yelpers alike fully aware of the magic and mystery of shops like Portlands Voodoo Doughnuts and Chicagos Dinkels Bakery. The Internet era has returned groups of artisans specializing in individual products to prominence whether they sell frozen goats milk yogurt, sea salt or handcrafted bicycles and artisanal doughnuts are an extension of this trend.
There are, after all, two main types of doughnut eaters in this world. On the one hand are the casual doughnut munchers, the type who enjoys Dunkin Donuts and probably gets a doughnut or two a week, along with a cup of DDs finest Arabica coffee. America runs on Dunkin, so there are presumably a lot of people in this group. On the other hand, however, you have the connoisseurs. Flavor, preparation and setting matter more to them. As does texture. And doughnut culture. And ambiance. Have no doubt Union Square Donuts falls into this second category.
And Union Square Donuts certainly knows how to make a doughnut.
Theres a reason, you see, why the shop has so few varieties of doughnuts. Making only a few types at a time ensures that every doughnut will be perfectly prepared and extremely fresh when it makes it from the kitchen into a customers hand. This logic probably also explains their hours the shop is only open from 9 a.m. through 3 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.
On first glance, the doughnuts seem to outweigh any potential criticism of Union Square Donuts itself. Co-owners Heather Schmidt and Josh Danoff certainly know a thing or two about their wares; both are trained chefs, and Heather worked at Bostons esteemed Rialto before opening Union Square Donuts on Feb. 14. And the training shows: in addition to being made fresh before being carefully iced and arranged on trays behind the counter, the doughnuts are unusually substantial. They barely taste as though theyre fried instead, the warm, satisfying flavor of their dough shines through to be complemented by glaze and toppings. The honey almond doughnut, for example, is covered in a glaze that tastes satisfyingly of real honey and is topped with roasted almond slivers. Similarly, the hibiscus rose doughnuts icing has a floral tang that offsets the pastrys sweetness. They manage to be neither soggy, nor greasy theyre sugary without tasting heavy and have enough oomph to avoid tasting like the feather-light confections found at Dunkin. The only slight disappointment is the cinnamon roll, which lacks much cinnamon-y kick. Union Square Donuts employees are also quite friendly, and manage not to seem daunted by their daily influx of customers.
Still, the shops business plan has a few glaring downsides. Compared to their lower grade counterparts, Union
Square Donuts serves pastries that are exorbitantly expensive. While chain doughnut shops generally sell doughnuts that cost around a dollar apiece, Union Square Donuts pastries are $3 apiece $3.50 if you want to try their renowned maple bacon doughnut. Even their coffee is steep, at $1.50 for a paper cups worth from a self-serve coffee dispenser. Their menu also includes a $3 Spindrift soda and $3 Ocean Ave popsicles. At least they take credit cards it can be disturbingly easy to spend $10 or more on breakfast.
Theyre also far away from everything. While most popular doughnut shops are located in at least a semi-urban area, Union Square Donuts really feels like its in the middle of nowhere at 201 Somerville Avenue. Walking or taking public transportation are both options though slow ones at that and it can take a while even to drive there.
The result is exactly what you would expect. The relatively small sector of the population with the time and means to go to an out-of-the-way doughnut shop descends en masse every weekend, cramming into a tight line in the foyer of the storefront. Any more than eight people or so makes the small space feel cramped, and the abundance of peacoats and Canada Goose jackets while the snow is still melting somehow manages to make it feel even smaller.
All in all, its a trade-off. These are certainly some of the best doughnuts available around Boston, but theyre expensive and unapologetically difficult to get to. If youre looking for a Saturday-morning adventure, however, Union Square Donuts could be just the ticket.
