To those Tufts students who rarely venture past the confines of Davis Square, Arlington (stretched along Mass Ave just north of Cambridge), may feel as far away as Jamaica Plain. Actually, East Arlington - home to the cozy pizzeria, 'Za - is only a little over a mile from campus. And if you are willing to make the trek, you are in for a treat.
Peter McCarthy, chef and owner of the upscale EVOO in Somerville, opened 'Za (short for piz'za) last year with his wife Colleen. While the menu at their new restaurant is simple - limited to salad, pizza, and a few desserts - the McCarthys have managed to bring gourmet flair to an American staple.
As the name suggests, the centerpiece at this restaurant is the pizza - a 10" pan pizza to be exact. The basic tomato and mozzarella pie starts at an affordable $6, and toppings, which range from the mundane (garlic or mushroom) to the exotic (homemade bread n'butter jalapeno, applewood smoked bacon, chorizo) are an additional $1.25 each.
If you have an adventurous palate there are usually five or so specialty pizzas ($10-12) that rotate with the availability of seasonal ingredients. And don't be surprised to see the unexpected served on a pizza; one current special - "Caesar's Potato Pizza" - features potato puree, sweet onion, mozzarella and asiago cheese, topped with romaine lettuce and creamy caesar dressing. I tried the black mission fig, caramelized onion, gorgonzola and parsley pizza-and almost cried when I got to the last piece.
'Za also serves a handful of salads ($6-$8) - unique combos of fresh veggies, fruit, cheeses and toppings purchased from local farmers whenever possible. A perennial favorite is the beet-orange salad - a magenta cylinder of beets, orange slices, red onion, tarragon, toasted hazel nuts, and goat cheese tossed with citrus vinaigrette.
You can finish off your meal at 'Za with dessert for $6. I enjoyed the goat cheese panna cotta (a light, eggless custard) with mixed berries. If you are over 21, 'Za also serves a nice selection of micro brews and wine.
The one-size-fits-all pizzas may seem small when you see them on an empty stomach, but they are rich and definitely filling. Two pizzas can easily feed three people of average hunger and, for a couple, splitting a pizza and a couple of salads should be enough. It's not difficult to have a great meal at 'Za for two for under $30.
Bottom line: With its great food, classy atmosphere and inexpensive menu, 'Za may be the perfect restaurant for a first date.
Leah Horowitz is a graduate student in Food Policy and Applied Nutrition at the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy.
