Though Boston has, for the most part, a rather disappointing offering of Asian restaurants, its Thai restaurants defy similar categorization. Thai eateries abound in the Greater Boston area, especially around Cambridge and Somerville, and the Thai food scene manifests itself in a number of high-quality dining establishments, each of which has a cult-like following.
Harvard Square's 9 Tastes: Fine Thai Cuisine does not look like much from the street. A gaudy blue awning pokes out onto the sidewalk across from Wagamama and Staples, and a simple door is all that is visible of the restaurant itself.
However, this bland exterior really only adds to 9 Tastes' allure. The restaurant is in a shallow basement, but step inside and down the steps and your low expectations will rise immediately. A spicy scent fills the air as walls lined with homey knickknacks come into focus. Tidy tables decorated with fresh flowers beckon. There's never a doubt that you're underground, but the eatery avoids feeling like a claustrophobia trigger.
And then you get to the food. 9 Tastes serves plenty of Thai classics, but it also features a number of menu items borrowed from other cultures. For example, its appetizer menu includes Thai calamari and vegan-friendly Thai lettuce wraps, in addition to more traditionally Japanese favorites like edamame and wakame seaweed salad. Though seaweed salad can be a notoriously hit or miss menu item, 9 Tastes does a reasonably good job - the seaweed is served on a bed of lettuce, with a lightly sweetened vinaigrette, garlic and sesame seeds. The salad tastes a bit overdressed, but the flavors blend together nicely, and all the ingredients taste very fresh. The crunch of the greens also pairs nicely with the seaweed, though it is slightly disappointing that the lettuce is flavorless iceberg.
The variety continues on the entree menu. 9 Tastes works hard to accommodate eaters of all different dietary needs and preferences, and the restaurant proudly boasts vegetarian and vegan options in addition to more standard, meat-based fare. The spicy tofu bean curd - another risky menu item - actually turns out nicely with its soft cubes of tofu, peas and carrots. The carrots are firm and flavorful, which gives the dish the "oomph" that it frequently lacks elsewhere. The fact that the carrots are coarsely cut instead of cubed into tiny pieces is also a good sign, as it indicates that the veggies were most likely bought fresh, not frozen. Finally, the dish is quite spicy. Boston restaurants frequently turn down the heat to a tepid smolder when faced with the East Coast palate, but 9 Tastes doesn't hold back and the dish benefits accordingly.
Unsurprisingly, 9 Tastes' vegetarian and vegan options are the cheapest on the menu ,and a vegetarian appetizer paired with a vegetarian entree comes to around $20. Still, even the meat-based dishes are reasonable. None of the seafood menu options costs more than $16 or $17, and the chicken and beef dishes are around $13-15. The menu is extensive and changes over the course of the day, so you're bound to find something within your price range. It also helps that the portions are relatively large - it's easier to spend money on a nice lunch, after all, when you know the leftovers will feed you the next day.
Finally, 9 Tastes also deserves credit for its servers. Quiet and understated, they work with a slick efficiency that can easily be taken for granted. The staff members are soft-spoken but attentive.
Overall, 9 Tastes does live up to its hype, and deserves its reputation as a go-to student restaurant in Harvard Square. Despite its low-key demeanor, it has good food and good service - plus, 9 Tastes delivers all day and serves its dinner menu all day on Saturdays and Sundays. It's also only a block or two away from the Harvard Square T stop. Really, what else could you want?
