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The Tufts Daily
Where you read it first | Friday, April 19, 2024

Boston Ave. cafe serves up slice of Denmark

Walking into Danish Pastry House — DPH, to those in the know — on Boston Avenue, one might think it's just a typical local cafe. It's cozy, yet spacious, with an attractive display of desserts lining one wall and an assortment of hot and cold drinks available for order.

"Cafe culture is really important in the community," said Kathleen Flahive (LA '04), co−owner of DPH. "We wanted it to be a place where everyone feels comfortable."

Flahive noted the time and effort needed to convert the space from two separate stores into the inviting room it is today and added that it took five years for the shop to break even.

In addition, Flahive only just started receiving a regular paycheck.

"Ulla [Winkler, Flahive'sco−owner] and I are people of passion," said Flahive. "We didn't go into this business to make money."

Flahive and Winkler's dedication is clear throughout the history of the bakery. Flahive, originally from New Hampshire, spent time in Denmark before attending Tufts. She was won over by their pastries — "Way better than France, not that I'm biased," she said — and partnered with Winkler to open up the store. Winkler's vision for a European bakery drove the business, and the two traveled to Denmark to do research and hire bakers, "Which was really terrible, let me tell you — tasting all that food!" said Flahive with a laugh.

Now, the duo makes all of their products at their Watertown location, using only high−quality ingredients.

"Most bakers use mixes," Flahive said. "We make everything from scratch ourselves. That obsession with quality separates us from other places. We also do incredible variety."

And this is where the "just a cafe" illusion is shattered. DPH also offers handmade, fresh paninis, crepes, daily breakfast and Sunday brunch.

The cafe provides cakes for any occasion — including weddings — and supplies breads, cakes, pies and other products to some of the best hotels in Boston, such as the Taj and the W, according to Flahive.

"Everybody loves muffins and scones, but people come for miles for the kringle," Flahive said. "We really hope to improve awareness. Most people don't understand that we have all this other business — wedding cakes, wholesale, farmers' markets throughout Boston, catering."

Currently, DPH has 50 employees and is baking seven days a week. You won't see Flahive donning an apron, though.

"The bakers tend to kick me out of the kitchen," she said. "When I bake, there's flour everywhere and I'm covered in chocolate."

The real bakers, however, are clearly kept occupied. The aforementioned popular kringle, a croissant−like concoction laced with almond paste and sprinkled with sliced almonds, is perhaps DPH's most famous offering, along with its Brioche Braid.

Others include the Spandauer Danish, a pastry with custard, and Flahive's favorites: the French waffle, butter cream with raspberry preserves sandwiched by flaky pastry and dipped in chocolate, and the Floderbolle, a homemade meringue dipped in dark chocolate on an almond cookie base.

Hungry yet? Try the toffee cookie — crunchy on the edges and soft in the middle with salty−sweet goodness throughout — or maybe the popular seven−layer bar, a crumbly concoction of graham cracker, chocolate and peanut butter chips and coconut. Whatever your sweet tooth is craving, you're bound to find it here — and if you don't, you can always ask.

Flahive is very much in tune with the community, which she chalks up to her Tufts education.

"Tufts taught me to be a critical thinker and to communicate," she said. "I still meet with my adviser today."

She and Winkler also hope to hear input from current students.

"We would love any feedback, questions, suggestions," she said emphatically.

Already, DPH is implementing some changes toward better customer service, including an additional cash register for faster lines and a new system to streamline and expedite the ordering process.

Many Tufts students already frequent DPH and offer rave reviews.

"I go there every Friday on my way to work," said Avantha Arachchi, a junior. "It's my favorite place to get food. They have my iced tea lemonade and lox bagel ready for me. They're super nice, and once you start going often you get a rapport with them."

David Gittess, a senior, agreed, saying, "I really like the large windows that always keep it bright. They should think about getting free Wi−Fi."

Sinclair Stafford, a senior, went straight to the heart of the matter: "They have great pastries!"

So the next time you're having a craving for a breakfast sandwich, omelet, crepe, panini, soup, eclair, red velvet cupcake, key lime cheesecake or S'more tart, head over to DPH and eat your fill. And make sure to say hi to Flahive while you're there.