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The Tufts Daily
Where you read it first | Monday, November 4, 2024

Shabu-Zen

Whether seeking a little warmth in the last days of the waning winter or searching for some place light and healthy to eat while slimming down for summer, Shabu-Zen in Chinatown may just be the place. A Japanese twist on the traditional Chinese hot-pot cooking style, Shabu-Zen offers an informal atmosphere whether having a quick lunch at the bar or a more leisurely and communal dining experience at a booth. The general dining formula consists of choosing a flavor of broth, a plate of uncooked meat, seafood or vegetables, and a side of either rice, vermicelli (thin Chinese rice noodle) or udon (thick Japanese flour and wheat noodle).

Taiwanese born, American-educated owner David Wong was personable and offered many cultural and culinary insights. Having worked in Japan for 20 years, Wong determined that lovers of Japanese cuisine are "not just into the cold stuff" and decided to capitalize on this by recently opening this unique addition to Chinatown's myriad East Asian restaurants. Shabu-Shabu, he says, literally means 'swish, swish' mimicking the sound made when cooking a slice of meat in the broth.

Choosing to sit at the large, rectangular bar in the center of the room with a view of the open, spotless kitchen, we each enjoyed our own personal built-in stainless steel pot for cooking. If sharing is preferred, then sit along the walls where electric stoves heat larger, more traditional hot-pots.

When we sat down we were automatically served chicken broth in our hot-pots and separate side plates of soy and tea sauces, minced garlic, scallions, and chili peppers. For those who with a more diverse palette, four additional, more flavorful broths are featured: Chinese herbal, Chinese spicy, Thai tom-yum, and Korean kimchi. All entrees are also served with a plate of vegetables (bok choy, scallion slices, tofu, corn, tomato, fish balls).

The Thai tom-yom broth is tangy and mildly spicy, but be careful to avoid eating the chili peppers, hard leaves, or lemon grass used for spicing. According to Wong many of Shabu-Zen's Cambodian customers have commented that the spicy-sour taste of the broth makes them feel like they are home.

The Korean kimchi flavored broth can be served mild, spicy or extreme. While visiting Korea, Wong researched why he thought the complexion of Korean women was better and found that it was due to the chili paste in Kimchi which heats up the body, making you sweat and release toxins without hurting your stomach. Like the Chinese herbal broth, this selection will increase blood circulation.

Choosing a broth flavor can make or break the meal at Shabu-Zen, so pick carefully while keeping an open mind to experimentation. We enjoyed the kimchi broth, but found it a bit overpowering as we struggled to savor the meat. Perhaps trying a side order of cold kimchi (pickled bok choy in the Korean flavoring) to wrap around the meat is the solution. We also chose the tom-yum broth that has depth and lingered in the mouth and nose. An excellent choice for those who like Southeast Asian cuisine.

The menu features six grades of beef from the extremely tender Japanese imported, rib-eye Kobe beef at $48 a plate to four quality cuts of more reasonably priced beef ($11.95-16.95) to general grade beef ($9.95). When choosing the more expensive, tender beef, select a lighter flavored broth so as to not obscure the texture and taste of the meat. Lamb, chicken, and pork are one quality cut and price ($9.95).

Because the menu was designed for healthy eating without the sacrificing of flavor, the fat that runs through even the tenderest cuts of meat is necessary so that during the cooking process it does not get hard and is able to absorb the broth. Chicken, also served thinly sliced, may turn hard and brittle quickly when cooked in the broth.

Vegetarians can opt for the vegetarian broth and plate with a variety of vegetables, tofu and taro ($11.95). If not satisfied with one plate, then order an additional plate of meat or vegetables for only $4.95 (excluding high grade beef). Seafood lovers, can order from the ?  la carte menu or enjoy combination platters of scallops, prawns, salmon, cod, squid, clams, fish cakes, and more ($11.95-16.95).

As savory as our meal was, the most delectable samplings were specially prepared for us by Wong himself. We sampled Thai suki sauce featuring cilantro, coriander leaf, garlic and chili sauce. This sweet and spicy dip complemented the Thai tom-yum broth and pork plate. Next, Wong made us a sauce for our lamb plate that was composed of fermented bean curd, black bean paste, and chopped scallions. These two sauces demonstrated again the depth and breadth of flavor one experiences while eating from a hot-pot. If interested in experimenting, do not be afraid to enquire or to ask for Wong himself as he is both enthusiastic and friendly, making conversation with many of his customers at the bar.

The cool and light complimentary cup of sweet red bean soup, oats and longan fruit flavor provided a nice finish to the meal. Lovers of ice cream might try Mochi, a simple, yet wonderful desert consisting of an ice cream patty covered in a soft, floury taro shell.

Try-out a signature fresh fruit smoothie ($3.50) mixed with peach, lychee, mango or another selection from the extensive juice menu to cool off on a hot day or after a spicy meal. The restaurant also features a domestic wine and an imported beer and sake list.