PrettyLittleThing was once the face of fast fashion’s glitzy, in-your-face appeal, known for bodycon dresses, flashy patterns, cut-out tops and influencer endorsements –– particularly from the cast of “Love Island.” The brand represented a carefree, fun aesthetic focused on quick, trendy styles at rock-bottom prices.
However, last week, the brand mysteriously went offline, deleting all of its Instagram posts. Soon after, PrettyLittleThing announced that it was now a “legacy in progress,” creating looks for “every kind of It Girl.” Gone were the cheap, trendy micro-tops; their all-caps logo and bright pink visuals disappeared almost overnight. In their place emerged a more sophisticated color palette of burgundies, browns, creams and beiges. Their logo is now presented in a quieter calligraphy style. The website now features ruched maxi dresses, buttoned two-piece sets and suit jackets, offering a markedly elevated look. Prices have also risen significantly, with dresses now ranging from $55–65.
“Before, we would focus on getting the product on site at the absolute cheapest price we could,” PrettyLittleThing Chief Executive Officer Umar Kamani said. “What we’ve done now is not to focus on having a dress on site at [around $4], but having a dress that’s thicker, not see-through and a better fit.”
This rebrand isn’t entirely unexpected. PrettyLittleThing seems to be hopping on the latest fast-fashion trend of “quiet luxury.” Quiet luxury clothing is subtle, sophisticated and understated. Think Sofia Richie’s timeless glam or Molly Mae’s beige wardrobe. Quiet luxury represents a more classic and high-end style, avoiding ostentation for a sleek, elevated appearance.
The irony here, however, is that luxury isn’t just about timeless looks; it’s also about enduring quality. Luxury pieces are meant to be worn beyond one cycle, with materials designed to stand the test of time. Unfortunately, this doesn’t entirely match PrettyLittleThing’s history. The brand is particularly known for promoting unsustainable levels of consumption, outrageously low prices — think pennies for tops — and poor working conditions. In 2020, reports surfaced that workers at a factory linked to Boohoo Group, PrettyLittleThing’s parent company, were being paid only $3.81 an hour. Boohoo later conducted their own independent review, which confirmed these allegations.
Interestingly, PrettyLittleThing’s rebrand has failed to include any statements regarding sustainable working practices or broader ethical commitments. The focus seems solely on the aesthetic transformation of their clothing line, with no acknowledgment of the brand’s history of exploitation or its efforts to address sustainability. This rebrand appears less about genuinely adopting a higher-quality, luxury image and more about following the latest trend in fast fashion.
This move is not unique to PrettyLittleThing, though. Zara, another fast-fashion giant, has also undergone a significant rebrand. The Spanish brand, once synonymous with rapid turnarounds of runway trends, has gradually shifted towards a more refined, elevated aesthetic. Their prices have increased, moving away from the budget-friendly options they were once known for.
Additionally, in 2019, Zara revamped its logo, stepping away from the minimalist design in favor of a more intricate style, similar to the logos of luxury brands such as Cartier, Gucci and Bulgari. This new logo was designed by Baron & Baron, the same design firm behind the typography of Dior, Coach and Bottega Veneta.
Zara’s transformation has been successful to some extent. In fact, many no longer think of Zara as fast fashion at all.
“Zara is a designer brand now,” Guido Palau, a hairstylist for Prada and Valentino shows, claimed. “They’re really giving their customers a high-end product.” But what does it truly mean to be a designer brand?
In the mid-2010s, Zara faced severe criticism over the ethics of fast fashion. The brand became known for releasing clothing items into stores within 10 to 15 days of creating the initial design, and for introducing over 20 collections each year. Zara’s quick turnaround times were revolutionary for the fashion industry, but they also contributed to the brand’s negative reputation regarding labor practices and environmental concerns.
Zara’s image was further tarnished by incidents like Melania Trump wearing a controversial Zara jacket during a visit to a migrant detention center. Since then, the brand has made notable efforts to distance itself from its fast-fashion roots. In 2019, Zara introduced ambitious sustainability goals, aiming to incorporate organic or recycled materials into their products by 2025.
Abercrombie & Fitch presents another interesting example of reinvention. In 2016, the brand was voted as America’s most hated retailer. Six years later, Netflix released “White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch,” a documentary that detailed the brand’s decline, largely due to oversexualized visuals and discriminatory practices. In the past, Abercrombie was known for showcasing barely-clad couples embracing or kissing on shopping bags, store displays and walls.
Since then, however, Abercrombie has undergone a significant overhaul. The brand now aims to cater to a more mature, diverse customer base. The vibe is less sultry, with photos of young people biking or embodying “wellness.” Instead of low-rise jeans, henley shirts and micro-mini denim skirts, Abercrombie now offers blazers, wool coats and boucle jackets. The brand’s target audience has shifted primarily to twenty-somethings entering the workforce or professional life, reflected in its new offerings designed for a more sophisticated, adult style.
In addition to the clothing overhaul, Abercrombie has worked to address sustainability and inclusivity. According to an Abercrombie spokesperson, the company is aiming to make its practices more sustainable. The brand’s ads now feature more models of color. In 2019, Abercrombie introduced its Curve Love line, which offers a wider range of sizes and fits designed to flatter different body types –– a significant change for a brand that once catered only to smaller sizes.
Furthermore, Abercrombie has moved away from the controversial, sex-driven marketing tactics they used in the ’90s. Instead, their advertising now emphasizes the clothing itself, with a more understated approach.
These rebranding efforts highlight a strange, growing trend within the fashion industry, where fast-fashion brands are attempting to redefine themselves to appeal to a more discerning, older consumer. For brands such as PrettyLittleThing, Zara and Abercrombie, the path forward seems to be offering “accessible luxury” — high-quality, “timeless” pieces that give consumers the appearance of sophistication without the luxury price tag.
Interestingly, some argue that this rise of “luxury” is less about a societal shift toward sophistication and more about politics. This shift is reflective of a larger movement towards adopting more conservative values. This past year saw a strange glamorization of the “housewife aesthetic,” with influencers like Nara Smith — known for her made-from-scratch cooking videos — and the “cottagecore” aesthetic rising in prominence. This cultural shift from revealing cut-out tops and mini skirts to more modest, conservative button-downs and necklines could be interpreted as a reflection of the current American political climate.
This shift towards “accessible luxury” by brands like PrettyLittleThing, Zara and Abercrombie highlights a changing consumer demand for sophistication at an affordable price. While these rebrands appeal to a desire for timeless aesthetics, the real challenge remains: Can these brands shed their fast-fashion roots and truly embrace sustainability and ethical practices? With PrettyLittleThing, it’s hard to feel confident when many of their items are still entirely made of polyester despite the increased prices.
Perhaps the better question is this: Have consumers truly shifted towards luxury, or is this just another cycle of fast fashion cleverly rebranded?
